Peter Doucette is an AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide and Special Teams trainer for the U.S. Military and Department of Defense. He has been guiding technical climbing since 1998 and specializes in custom guided mountain experiences. Peter is also a member of the Instructor Team for the American Mountain Guide Association and climbs extensively throughout the world having completed numerous first ascents from Alaska to Namibia. His ideal day in the alpine involves ephemeral ice, solid partnership, and good timing. Peter is an athlete for Outdoor Research and has a BS in Education from University of Maine. He lives in New Hampshire.
Climbing is a thread that runs through many aspects of my life, personal and professional. I’m always up for engaging days in the mountains. Personally, I’m passionate about moving well through technical terrain, long alpine routes, elegant ski lines and being out in the weather. The cumulative effects of shorter climbs and single pitch discoveries have sharpened my abilities and made the big days more enjoyable. Recent ascents in Patagonia and Alaska continue to teach me and opened my eyes to movement strategies and decision making in big terrain. My climbing partners and friends continue to inspire me with their climbing, style, and fortitude in the often cold and usually vertical arenas we share.
Professionalism as a guide and educator has been important to me since I began my career in 1998, working for the National Outdoor Leadership School. I understood early on, that challenges take many forms in the mountains and preparedness pays off. Solid risk management skills, technical proficiencies, and now, more than 20 years of climbing experience, are priceless assets when it comes to decision making that shapes the quality of experiences for partners, guests and clients.
In the last 6 years, I’ve spent several months each year, training Special Operations Teams for the Department of Defense, educating very dedicated individuals on mountain travel, cold weather operations and high angle rescue skills. This has been an eye opener towards understanding the versatility of rope systems, materials, skill sets, and their application. Adapting tools and skills for tactical use and moving larger teams in the mountains with minimal equipment offer compelling challenges that interest me. A favorite recent quote is: “Training is for the known. Education is for the unknown.” By offering the best opportunities I can, for both training and education, honest, informed, practiced, application of these skills becomes possible.
I continue pursuing the best information and exercising my broad skill set. This practice allows me to climb and work in wild environments and terrain all over the world with confidence and efficiency. Informed climbing and guiding, with the comfort, education, and objectives of my clients in mind, gives shape to the many forms that a guided day can take. With the highest level of training and certification available, I am better able to set clients up for success while maximizing the margin of safety.
Education and Certifications
- IFMGA Licensed Mountain Guide
- American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski Mountaineering Guide
- B.S. Secondary Education from the University of Maine, Orono
- AIARE Level I,II, and III courses w/ Level III Certification
- Mountain Instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School
- Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) since ’98
- American Mountain Guides Association Professional Member since ‘02
Professional Distinction and Notable Guiding
- Team member for Leading Edge Concepts
- Instructor for the original S.E.I.
- Trainer for the Department of Defense Military Special Operations Teams
- National Instructor Team Member for the American Mountain Guides Association since 2011.
- Second technical ascent of Mount Namuli, Mozambique
- Several Complete Grand Traverses Tetons, WY.
- North Palisade Travers, Sierra, CA.
- Aurora Direct Lake Willoughby VT.
- Omega Cannon Cliff, NH
- The Promenade Lake Willoughby VT.
- Called on Account of Rains, Lake Willoughby, VT.
- Remisson, Cathedral Ledge
- 25+ Ascents of The Black Dike and Fafnir, Cannon Cliffs, NH
- 10+ Ascents of Repentance Cathedral Ledge N. Conway, NH
- Over 50 summits of Mount Washington in Winter
- Moon Goddess Arête and Venetian Blind, Temple Crag, Sierra, CA
- Time Wave Zero Portrero Chico, Mexico
- Cerro Torre’s West Face/Ragni Route, 600M 90 M4 with Adam George – 2014
- Fitz Roy’s Supercanaleta 1600m 80deg 5+ with Majka Burhardt and Ann-Gilbert Chase – 2015
- Pilar Goretta, via Mate, Porro Y Todo Lo Demas, 900m 50deg 6c with Bernd Zeugswetter – 2016
- First Ascent of Twisted Stair with Silas Rossi V WI6R/X M6+ 2500′ Mount Johnson, AK. April 2013
- First Ascent of The Sum of Its Parts with Silas Rossi Grade V AI6R M7 A2 4000′ Mount Bradley, AK. April, 2012
- First Ascent of Heavy Mettle with Silas Rossi Grade V WI5+ M6 4600′ Mount Bradley, AK April, 2012
- First Ascent of Southern Crossing V 5.11+ with Majka Burhardt and Kate Rutherford, Brandberg Namibia June, 2009
- First Ascent: Mount Foraker’s Fin Wall with Freddie Wilkinson and Ben Gilmore Alaska grade VI, NEI5+. May, 2007
- Climbed Moonflower Buttress (to Cornice Bivy) with Silas Rossi VI, 4000ft WI6, M7, AO (Lead all pitches) 42 hours on route. May, 2008
- First Ascent of Post Nasal Drip, with Matt McCormik. NEI 4+ M7 Smuggler’s Notch, VT. Dec, 2013
- First Ascent of Chasm Spasm with Adam Bidwell. M8 Onsight Trad Mount Webster, NH. March, 2014
- First Ascent of Ice Devil with Adam Bidwell NEI5+ M6+ Whitehorse, NH January 2014
- First Ascent of Reckless Youth M8 NEI5+ with Erik Eisle Whitehorse, NH January 2014
- First Ascent of Winter Asylum with Sam Bendroth WI6- Catherdral Ledge NH. January 2014
- FA: Intimidating Bicycle Ride, with Dan Corn NEI 5+ M6+: Cathedral Ledge NH.
- FA Firing Line with Freddie Wilkinson, NEI5+ M6 Cannon Cliff, NH
- FA: Bull in a China Closet and Dragon Butt with Craig Luebben Sichuan Province, China. Both were III WI5+ 2002
- The Terminator Banff, Alberta V WI6+
- The Nose and Salathe walls on El Capitan with Joel Booth, Yosemite Valley, CA VI 5.9 C2
- Regular NW Face of Half Dome in a day Yosemite Valley, CA. VI 5.9 C2
- The Naked Edge Eldorado Canyon, CO. 5.11
- The Scenic Cruise Black Canyon CO. V 5.10+
- Two Nuts for You 5.12b, Shell Pond Maine
Additional Ascents in Patagonia, China, Norway, France, Switzerland, Italy, Namibia, Mozambique, Ethiopia, Ecuador, Western Canada, Alaska, Eastern Sierras, Yosemite, Cascades, Tetons, Rockies, and extensive experience in New Hampshire, Maine, and Vermont.
Athlete Ambassador with Outdoor Research
I’m an Athlete Ambassador (IFMGA Test Team) with Outdoor Research. You can explore my bio page and select articles on their website: