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Home Peter Doucette

Peter Doucette

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Climbing is a thread that runs through many aspects of my life, personal and professional. For me, good days out in the mountains, working or playing, are difficult to beat.

Personally, I'm passionate about moving well in the mountains, long alpine routes, elegant ski lines and being out in the weather. The cumulative effects of shorter climbs and single pitch discoveries have sharpened my abilities and made the big days more enjoyable. Recent ascents in Alaska, like Mount Foraker’s Fin Wall and the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter have opened my eyes to movement strategies in big terrain. My climbing partners and friends continue to inspire me with their climbing, style and fortitude in the often cold and usually vertical terrain we share.

Professionalism as a guide has been important to me since I began my career working for the National Outdoor Leadership School in 1998. I understood early on that there were many ways to approach the challenges inherent in mountainous terrain. Solid risk management means continually pursuing the best information and broadest skill set. These are the tools that allow me to climb and work in wild environments and terrain all over the world with confidence and efficiency. Informed climbing and guiding with the comfort, education, and objectives of my clients in mind give shape to the many forms that a guided day can take.

With the highest level of training and certification available, I am better able to set clients up for success while maximizing the margin of safety. Many clients have said I've made challenging climbs far more accessible than they ever imagined. There are a variety of techniques that can make your climbing objectives more enjoyable and attainable.

Helping you realize your potential as a climber, and working to manage the challenges that present themselves, keep me enthusiastic about guiding and instructing.

 

  • UIAGM/IFMGA Licensed Mountain Guide
  • American Mountain Guide Association Certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski Mountaineering Guide 
  • B.S. Secondary Education from the University of Maine, Orono
  • AIARE Level I,II, and III courses w/ Level III Certification
  • Mountain Instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School
  • Current Wilderness First Responder (WFR) since ’98
  • American Mountain Guides Association Professional Member since ‘02

Notable Ascents

Guided

  • Complete Grand Traverse Tetons, WY.
  • Cathedral Traverses Tetons WY.
  • N. Palisades Travers, Sierra, CA.
  • Aurora Direct IV NEI5+ Lake Willoughby VT.
  • The Promenade IV NEI5+ Lake Willoughby VT.
  • Called on Account of Rains IV NEI 5+ Lake Willoughby, VT.
  • 25+ ascents of The Black Dike and Fafnir, IV NEI 5- and 5 Cannon Cliffs, NH
  • Many ascents of Repentance IV NEI 5 Cathedral Ledge N. Conway, NH
  • Over 50 summits of Mount Washington in Winter
  • Moon Goddess Arête and Venetian Blind IV 5.9, 5.8 Mount Temple Sierra, CA
  • Time Wave Zero Portrero Chico Mexico V 5.11b


Personal

  • FA: Mount Foraker’s Fin Wall with Freddie Wilkinson and Ben Gilmore Alaska grade VI, NEI5+.
  • Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter Alaska Grade VI, 4000ft WI6, M7, AO (Lead all pitches) 42 hours on route.
  • FA: Intimidating Bicycle Ride, with Dan Corn Cathedral Ledge NH. NEI 5+ M7R
  • FA: Firing Line with Freddie Wilkinson, Cannon Cliff, NH III NEI 5+ M6
  • FA: Bull in a China Closet and Dragon Butt Sichuan Province, China.  Both III WI5+
  • The Terminator Banff, Alberta V WI6+
  • The Nose and Salathe walls on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, CA VI 5.9 C2
  • Regular NW Face of Half Dome in a day Yosemite Valley, CA. VI 5.9 C2
  • The Naked Edge Eldorado Canyon, CO.  5.11.
  • The Scenic Cruise Black Canyon CO. V 5.10+
  • Additional ascents in China, Alaska, Italy, Ecuador, Western Canada, Sierras, Yosemite, Cascades, Tetons, Rockies, and extensive experience in New Hampshire, Maine, and Vermont.
Sterling Ropes AsoloLowe Alpine