Diversify your climbing life this winter—Tackle a technical ascent of Mount Washington and experience the most classic ridges, ravines, gullies and mixed buttresses in the Northeast. Explore the frozen gems of Crawford Notch with moderate approaches and a huge density of ice and mixed climbs. Swing into the ice choked chimney’s of Cathedral Ledge or gingerly tap your way up Cannon Cliffs trademark runnels and steep slab. The choice is up to you!
Looking for the wildest lines in the Northeast? Experience “The Lake.” Longer, steeper, more challenging routes exist above Lake Willoughby, in Vermont, often described as the single best ice venue in the lower 48.
Mount Washington
The glacially carved ravines and the windswept ridgelines of Mount Washington offer an alpine venue for mountaineers and climbers seeking adventure with a big mountain feel. Notorious for it’s savage weather, including record high wind speeds, the summit of Mount Washington can be achieved in winter with careful planning, good equipment, some fitness and the right weather window.
Peak Ascents: Above tree line travel, through an austere winter landscape of rime ice and frost feathers is an experience to which many are drawn year after year. The Lion’s Head trail ( about 9 miles round trip and approximately 4000 vertical feet gain) is the most popular route for those attempting the summit. Ascents from the western side of the peak, up Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail, are also spectacular and often less crowded.
Technical Ascents: The gullies of Huntington’s Ravine include multi-pitch chasms of blue ice, walls of dark weathered granite, and plenty of steep snow. Pinnacle Gully, Odell’s, Damnation, Yale and North Gully are all unique and well worth the approach. Exceptional surroundings and high quality routes of a varied nature make this a climbing destination with a great deal of appeal and a long history.
Don’t let the moderate technical grades fool you. These are long alpine routes in a potentially severe environment that need to be taken seriously. If you’re up for an experience like this, the Mountain Sense guides can teach you the skills necessary to assess and manage the risks of this challenging alpine environment.
Frankenstein Cliffs and Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch
With consistently formed classics and moderate approaches the walls and gullies of Crawford Notch are among the most popular New England ice destinations—and rightly so.
Frankenstein Cliffs offers a high density of desirable lines varying in difficulty from NEI 2 slabs (helpful for learning foundational skills) to stout test pieces like Dropline, Dracula and Widow’s Walk.
When the weather is poor or avalanche danger on Mount Washington is too high, Mt. Willard can offer a viable alpine alternative to Huntington’s Ravine. Similar in many aspects to the climbs on Mt. Washington, the longer gullies on Mt. Willard (Shoestring Gulley, Central Gully, and Landslide all gain 2000 vertical feet between the base of the notch and the ridge of Mt. Webster.
Across the notch, forming its Western boundary, Mt. Willard is the offers Cinema and Hitchcock gullies: two local favorites that offer enjoyable climbing in a beautiful setting. In addition to these longer routes, there are also many other options for getting in some extra pitches. Climbs on the S. face like Great Madness and Gully #1 receive sun that make some of the chilliest days reasonable.
Cannon Cliffs, Franconia Notch
As demonstrated by John Bouchard’s bold first ascent of the Black Dike, climbing on Cannon Cliffs in the winter is not for the faint of heart. Often thin, generally steep, dependably technical and alpine in nature, Cannon is home to The Black Dike, Fafnir and occasionally the ephemeral Lila, Quartet Ice Hose and Omega. Cannon continues to yield some of the most challenging and rewarding climbing for those looking to push themselves in the mixed alpine arenas. Check it out for yourself!
Lake Willoughby
The greatest concentration of steep ice in New England is at Lake Willoughby. Offering routes that range in difficulty from NEI3 to 6 , there’s nowhere else it the lower 48 states that even comes close. Clipping into a massive iced in Cedar tree at the top the most sought after lines at “The Lake“ is a great feeling. Routes like Crazy Diamond III NEI 4+, The Last Gentleman IV NEI 5, and The Promenade IV NEI 5+ form consistently and are engaging full day adventures.
